15th September 2008
Local asparagus appearing at the market is as much a spring time indicator to a foodie, as new cherry blossom is to a gardening nut. It’s a part of the year to look forward to.
Out of season imported asparagus is just not the same, quickly deteriorating after harvest dried, split -or worse- wrinkled bases should be avoided.
I love Stephanie Alexanders stance on the seasonality of this special produce “Be wary of imported asparagus and think how much moisture it has lost on its 20-hour minimum trip from where ever it was harvested. And ask yourself why you must have asparagus in the autumn or winter.”(Cooks Companion, 1996)
A member of the lily family, asparagus are shoots that rapidly break through the soil and grow from a base ‘crown’. With white, green and purple colours all available from the same variety asparagus is labour intensive to grow and hence the price reflects this making them an even more special vegetable to enjoy at their peak. Wild asparagus with particularly slender stalks and spear like tips are occasionally available at market from local foragers, these are as special as the wild mushrooms that Autumn offers us, yet rarer.
Considering the delicate nature of asparagus it seems only fitting to follow the correct etiquette and eat each spear with your fingers, just as long as there is no messy sauce. Why not eat like the Queen.
To take advantage of this spring speciality, why not consider asparagus for a perfect breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Why not start the day with steamed asparagus, coddled eggs, hollandaise and toasted brioche for breakfast, a decadent lunch of asparagus and pea soup with lemon poached salmon and herb crème fraîche or dinner of prosciutto wrapped asparagus with rare roast beef, parsnip puree and truffled jus.
Soup for lunch it is… dress it up with the salmon or just simple and refined on its own
Asparagus and pea soup with herb crème fraîche
1 kg fresh local asparagus – tips reserved and roughly chopped
250g of fresh peas (frozen baby peas are ok instead)
2 shallots – chopped finely
2 cloves garlic – chopped finely
½ cup white wine
1 tbsp of olive oil
2 tbsp parsley leaves
1 lt vegetable stock
Sea salt and pepper
½ cup crème fraîche
1/3 cup mixed soft herbs (such as parsley, mint, chives and dill) – chopped finely
1 lemon – skin zested and juice squeezed
Mix the crème fraîche, mixed herbs, lemon zest and half the lemon juice
Sauté shallot and garlic in the olive oil until translucent
Add asparagus and peas cook for 2 minutes, deglaze with the white wine and add the stock
Cook until soft and then puree until velvety with the parsley
Season to taste and gently warm with the reserved tips
Dollop with the herb crème fraîche to serve
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